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October
26

Moraine Lake and Wickiup Plains: A Quiet Fall Loop Beneath South Sister

Some hikes stand out because of a difficult summit or an unexpected challenge. Others are memorable because nearly everything comes together: clear skies, calm water, comfortable afternoon temperatures and long stretches of trail with almost no one else around.

Our Saturday hike from Devil's Lake to Moraine Lake and Wickiup Plains was one of those days.

We began on the South Sister Climber Trail, followed it to the junction for Moraine Lake and then made a broad loop through the Three Sisters Wilderness. After visiting Moraine Lake, we climbed back to the climber trail, continued from the junction toward Wickiup Plains and returned on the loop that also connects with the Sisters Mirror Lake Trail. By the time we reached the car, we had traveled 12.3 miles with approximately 1,925 feet of elevation gain.

South Sister reflected in the still water of Moraine Lake on a clear October morning.

A Cold Start on the South Sister Trail

The morning temperature was in the low 20s when we started from Devil's Lake. It was the kind of cold that makes gloves and layers feel essential at the trailhead, but also promises clear air and firm trail conditions.

The first portion of the route follows the same trail used by those climbing South Sister. We soon began seeing hikers headed for the summit, and for a while we were tempted to join them. We have summited South Sister before, and the beautiful weather made the idea especially appealing.

But a South Sister summit is not something to approach casually. We had not brought our trekking poles, which are particularly useful on the steep, loose descent. We decided we were not properly equipped for the additional climb and stayed with our planned route. It was the right decision—and the day still gave us some of the finest mountain scenery in Central Oregon.

Entering the Three Sisters Wilderness from the Devil's Lake trail system.

A Nearly Perfect Morning at Moraine Lake

At the trail junction, we branched away from the main climbing route and headed toward Moraine Lake. The change was immediate. Most hikers continued toward South Sister, while the trail to the lake was remarkably quiet.

When we arrived, the surface of Moraine Lake was almost perfectly still. South Sister was reflected so clearly that the mountain and its mirror image seemed to meet at the shoreline. Walking around the lake brought changing views of South Sister, Broken Top and the surrounding volcanic ridges, each repeated in the water.

It was difficult to leave. We have visited Moraine Lake before, but calm water, brilliant blue sky and so few people made this particular morning exceptional.

Broken Top reflected in the still water of Moraine Lake in Central Oregon's Three Sisters Wilderness.

Hiking trail curving across pale volcanic ground near Moraine Lake and South Sister.

Climbing Back Toward South Sister

From Moraine Lake, our route climbed back toward the South Sister Climber Trail. The higher we went, the wider the views became. Looking back from the moraine, we could see the lake below with Broken Top rising beyond it—a perspective that cannot be appreciated from the shoreline.

The morning chill gradually disappeared. Temperatures eventually reached the mid-50s, ideal for a long fall hike: cool enough for steady climbing but warm enough to shed our heavier layers.

Looking down on Moraine Lake with Broken Top beyond it. Alt text: Elevated view of Moraine Lake and Broken Top from a volcanic moraine near South Sister.

Solitude on Wickiup Plains

After reconnecting with the main trail, we continued toward Wickiup Plains. The landscape opened into broad, dry volcanic country, with South Sister dominating the horizon. Le Conte Crater and the smaller volcanic landmarks of the area gave the plains a stark character very different from the forest near Devil's Lake or the sheltered basin around Moraine Lake.

This is one of the pleasures of the route: within a single hike, the scenery changes repeatedly. Forest gives way to an alpine lake, the lake gives way to exposed moraine and the moraine opens onto a high volcanic plain.

Despite the excellent weather, we saw very few people on the trail to Wickiup Plains or on the plain itself. The contrast was striking. South Sister was attracting summit hikers on a nearly perfect day, yet only a short distance away we had long sections of trail almost entirely to ourselves.

Le Conte Crater viewed across the dry volcanic landscape of Wickiup Plains in Central Oregon.

South Sister dominates the view across Wickiup Plains. Alt text: South Sister rising above open Wickiup Plains under a clear blue sky.

A Loop Worth Returning To

We completed the loop by following the route that also intersects with the Sisters Mirror Lake Trail and eventually returned to Devil's Lake. At 12.3 miles and 1,925 feet of elevation gain, this was a substantial day hike without the additional demands of a South Sister summit.

The mileage tells only part of the story. What made this hike special was the progression of landscapes, the extraordinary reflections at Moraine Lake and the quiet we found after leaving the main climbing route.

Our older Moraine Lake photographs did not transfer well when our website changed providers, and some disappeared altogether. That makes it especially satisfying to revisit the lake with a new set of photographs that finally does the scenery justice.

For those who are prepared for the distance and changing mountain conditions, combining Moraine Lake and Wickiup Plains creates a rewarding loop through some of the most varied country beneath South Sister. On this clear fall day, choosing the loop instead of the summit did not feel like settling for less. It felt like finding exactly the hike we were supposed to take.

Plan Before You Go

Mountain weather, trail conditions, access rules and permit requirements can change. The Devil's Lake/South Sister Trailhead provides access to the South Sister Climber, Devil's Lake and Wickiup Plains trails. A recreation pass is required for parking. During the Central Cascades permit season—currently June 15 through October 15—a limited-entry day-use permit is required for this trailhead. Confirm current conditions and requirements with the U.S. Forest Service and Recreation.gov before leaving.

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