The Hike to Broken Top is Among Central Oregon's Favorites

People exploring the Three Sisters Wilderness can hike to Broken Top from multiple trailheads. Three Creeks to Tam McArthur Rim provides for a social trail past Broken Hand to Broken Top and No Name Lake. Hikers looking for more distance can start at the Green Lakes Trailhead and hike Soda Creek to join with the Broken Top trail. Most people will drive past Todd Lake on the poorly maintained road to the Broken Top trailhead (high clearance vehicles are recommended) and cut the distance to 5.5 miles and under 1500 feet of elevation gain. And there is a well defined trail starting at Todd Lake which creates a much longer hike through old growth forest to join with the Soda Creek Trail and then the Broken Top trail. Total distance to the Broken Top summit exceeds 14 miles and pushes 2700 feet of elevation gain, but the experience is well worth it. Stunning views of Broken Top's eastern flank and Mt Bachelor become visible after hikers join with the Broken Top trail; bushwhacking in this open area can lead to new areas to explore and other beautiful views. 

The hike taken October 21, 2023 was on a sunny, warm day after snow had fallen the week before.  Remnants of melting snow were obvious, but created no real obstacles for hikers. This was also the first weekend in 2023 that did not require trailhead passes, so the trail was busy with many Broken Top hikers and off leash dogs; at times it seemed as if there were more dogs than people, but all encountered were well behaved and the people very friendly and happy to be out enjoying the beauty of the Central Oregon Cascades. No Name Lake was beautiful and cold with snow and glacial runoff, and the views from the summit toward Middle and North Sister were outstanding, although the ridge was very windy and not the best place to enjoy lunch.

We have hiked to Green Lakes multiple times. However, fewer hike this popular trail when the weather turns cold and cloudy. Our experience hiking to Green Lakes on 10-14-23 was the first we had this year. The trail passes to Green Lakes are so hard to get that if you are 30 seconds past 7 am on the US Forest Service website, you will be too late. Despite trying weekly all year, last Saturday, the last weekend of the year where passes are required, we finally obtained two. 

The weather was cloudy and cool, and during our hike the expected "ring of fire" eclipse occurred, resulting in a drop in temperature and a darker sky. However, after that event, the rest of our hike up to Green Lakes was uneventful, outside of hitting more and more snow the higher we climbed. At the second log bridge we put on our microspikes for safety against slippery conditions and the rest of the hike was fine. We had to do some postholing once we reached the first lake, but it was well worth the effort to travel to the far side which fewer people travel to, but is among our favorite spots due to the beautiful views of South Sister which can be mirrored in the lake. We also trekked a bit up the east side of the largest Green Lake, but decided against going further and returned back after enjoying lunch and the views.

On our hike back to the trailhead, we met a good number of hikers coming up in the later afternoon.  Our morning experience was solitary with no one visible during our hour at the lake.

Iron Mountain is Known for its Wildflowers

We have hiked Iron Mountain yearly since 2020, with each experience a little different. For those not familiar with Iron Mountain, it is a unique "Special Interest Area" in that it provides for over 300 species of wildflowers in various meadow, forested, and rocky environments. Each year the experience has been different, although our hike is typically done during the same few weeks in late June or early July. This year, our hike on July 1, 2023, was warm and we met many other very friendly people and families enjoying the same experience. The hike itself can be challenging and if hikers follow the route we do (which includes the Cone Peak Trail and portions of the Santiam Wagon Trail) the trek will amount to over 1900 feet of elevation gain and a total of 7 miles. We suggest getting an early start, take your camera, and don't rush the experience of seeing the lovely flowers and stunning mountain views from the summit.

To access the trailhead, travel west from Bend over Santiam Pass to the junction with Hwy 126. Take this until Hwy 20 (towards Sweet Home and Albany) branch off. Travel on Hwy 20 several miles until you reach Tombstone Pass. Park in the parking lot there (bring your forest pass) and start the Cone Peak Trail at this location.

Green Lakes is a Stunning Destination

The Green Lakes trail, off Century Drive in the Central Oregon Cascades, has historically been one of the most popular hikes in Oregon.  It has been used by families, trail runners, day hikers and backpackers for years as a beautiful and fairly easy hike to accomplish with the 4.5 miles and 1500 feet of gradual elevation change pretty doable for most. Over the years, we have hiked to Green Lakes many times, usually traveling on the east shore to the northern most lake, but enjoying the views and wildflowers and waterfalls of Fall Creek along the way. We have seen a huge increase of hikers traveling to Green Lakes over the years, but 2021 is the first year access to Green Lakes Trail is subject to the Central Oregon Wilderness Permit system. According to published articles, the Green Lakes/Soda Creek trails allow 120 day use permits during the 2021 hiking season. 

When we arrived at the trailhead at 7 am, we saw that all permits had been sold out.  During the initial part of the hike, we saw just a small handful of people, mostly runners who were coming down from the lakes. The wildflowers were out and the waterfalls on Fall Creek were full and beautiful. Despite the mosquitoes, the experience was wonderful and our hike up to the lakes went very quick. 

Once we arrived at Green Lakes, we looked around for the normal campers we were used to seeing at the 22 campsites around the lake.  We only spotted 2, although there may have been others located on the west side of the main lake which we didn't see as we followed the trail north to the smallest lake.

 Last year was the first time we had hiked deeper into the Three Sisters Wilderness, following the trail past the northern most Green Lake up to the pass between South Sister and Broken Top, gaining 500 more feet of elevation. The views back toward Green Lakes were beautiful, as were the closer views of South Sister.

The trail in this part of the Three Sisters Wilderness is much less traveled. The few people we passed were all backpackers who were traveling multiple days with overnight stops at various campsites in the area. But the views of North and Middle Sister plus Broken Top from a different perspective make for a unique setting few people see . The trail towards Golden Lake is not marked, but if you are looking for it, it is obviously well traveled. It is about a half a mile from the main trail before the lake is seen. Golden Lake is called what it is due to the wildflowers which were past their prime when we arrived, but the basin was beautifully green and the waterfall across the lake its own special oasis.

All in all we hiked over 16 miles, a very full day, but enjoyed many beautiful views and new experiences. There is a reason why we believe the Central Oregon Cascades are among the most special places in the world and we look forward every year to seeing new sights in our local area.

Whitewater Creek Trail Open

Jefferson Park, located on the north side of Mt. Jefferson, Oregon's second tallest Cascade mountain, is a hidden gem with stunning views, pristine alpine lakes, and beautiful meadows full of wildflowers during the mid summer months. Two years after the lighting caused Whitewater fire closed the most popular access trail to Jefferson Park, the Whitewater Creek trail opened this month. Last Saturday we hiked the trail to this popular destination.  

The Whitewater Creek trail head is at the end of a 7.4 mile gravel road off Hwy 22 ten miles east of Detroit. The area was burned during the fire and while loggers have removed much of the dead trees around the parking lot, there are still slash piles which impact the number of cars which can safely park. We arrived just before 9:00 am, but shortly after we parked, several cars came and the available parking was already gone.

The first 4 miles of the hike to Jefferson Park is in an area hard hit by the fire which burned roughly 25 square miles. Acres of burned old growth trees are abundant, but signs of life are returning with ferns, blackberry, Oregon grape and other plants growing among the blackened tree trunks. Very young seedling trees are starting to emerge from the soil, but it will take decades for the area to fully recover. 

Shortly after you leave the burn area and cross Whitewater Creek, you join up with the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) which runs through Jefferson Park itself.  Once you reach the park, several side trips provide access to Bay, Scout, Park and Rock lakes, all clean and clear alpine lakes with sandy bottoms with many camping areas nearby.  We hiked to Russell Lake, the furthest lake, and enjoyed our lunch on the shore. The hike back to the Whitewater trail head went relatively quick, allowing for stops to make way for the campers coming up the trail, and we arrived back at the parking lot with plenty of time to get back to Bend before evening.  This hike is sure to become one of our favorites and a "must do" for many summers to come.